Grainy charm and questioning masculinity

British menswear designer Martine Rose brought a touch of North London charm to Milan Fashion Week with her debut show. Known for her unconventional approach to fashion, Rose's designs are not instantly recognizable but have a unique beauty. This distinct style has made her one of the most influential designers of her generation.

Since launching her independent label in 2007, Rose has consulted with leading fashion houses and won Menswear Designer of the Year at the Fashion Awards 2023. Her Spring-Summer 2025 show continue to challenge traditional concepts of masculinity and tailoring. The collection included whip-stitched T-shirts worn with tartan shorts and fishnet socks, oversized blazers paired with leather pants and sports polos tucked into pencil skirts.

Rose's designs do not aim to impress but to offer real men's fashion proposals. She finds it interesting to question not gender, but clothing, and how men look amazing in her designs. In a unique twist, each model, spread out on the street in Milan, wore a prosthetic nose, highlighting the importance of the 'local hero', a concept featured in the collection's baseball caps and silk ties.

Rose's decision to show his collection in Milan, following shows in Florence and Paris, is seen as a blow to the British Fashion Council's menswear agenda, which has lost several key brands over the past six years Rose expressed her disappointment at what she perceives as a lack of investment in the industry in London and the impact of Brexit on the creative sector.

Despite the UK fashion industry's significant contribution to the economy, Rose believes it is not being taken seriously. He argues that successful designers often have to move to Paris or Italy to gain recognition, which he finds frustrating and depressing. He also points to the lack of support for designers in London, with high rents and no subsidies making it difficult to sustain a business.

However, the enthusiastic reception to Rose's show in Milan suggests that what London has lost, Milan has gained.